Three Secrets To Crispy Pickles, And A 'Lost Recipe' Found (2024)

Pickling spices, ready for their close-up Marissa McClellan/Food In Jars hide caption

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Marissa McClellan/Food In Jars

Three Secrets To Crispy Pickles, And A 'Lost Recipe' Found (2)

Pickling spices, ready for their close-up

Marissa McClellan/Food In Jars

Whether you're a veteran canner or you've just discovered this hot trend and want to get in on National Can It Forward Day this weekend, you know that the ultimate test of a good pickle is whether it's got some crunch to it.

As part of All Things Considered's Lost Recipes series, host Melissa Block talks with listener Joanie Vick, of Nashua, N.H., today. (You can hear the full interview above.)

Vick wants to re-create her Grandma Minnie's secret family recipe for Original New York Full Sour Pickles. Vick writes:

"I think I have all the ingredients, she omitted the amount of salt and what quantities of each (Grandma made it by the barrel). I know you use small pickling cucumbers, garlic cloves, and that you can use commercial pickling spices IF YOU PICK OUT ALL THE CINNAMON."

Enter expert pickler Marisa McClellan of the blog and now book Food in Jars. Her advice to Vick? Ditch the prefab pickling spice and make your own. And try a 5 percent salt solution per pound of cucumbers (full recipe below).

In addition to reverse-engineering Grandma Minnie's recipe, McClellan offers these tips for getting crisp pickles:

1. Trim the ends off the cucumbers before you pack them into jars. "Depending on how well you've washed your cucumbers, there can also be an enzyme in the blossom end of a cucumber that can lead to softening, and nobody wants a soft pickle," she says.

2. Try certain leaves. "It could be that your grandmother may have put some cherry leaves or grape leaves in the barrels with her cucumbers, which is a natural way to encourage cripsness because those leaves have tannins in them," McClellan says. (Tannins are naturally occurring plant polyphenols that can affect the nutrition and astringent taste of food and wine.)

3. Add alum "to encourage that nice texture," she says. Alum can be found in the spice section of the grocery store.

Listener Joan Vick wanted to re-create her Grandma Minnie's secret pickle recipe. Courtesy Joan Vick hide caption

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Courtesy Joan Vick

Listener Joan Vick wanted to re-create her Grandma Minnie's secret pickle recipe.

Courtesy Joan Vick

Here's McClellan's version of Grandma Minnie's recipe:

Kosher Dill Pickles

1 quart water

4 tablespoons kosher salt

1 pound Kirby cucumbers

4-5 peeled garlic cloves

2-3 tablespoons homemade pickling spice

Homemade Pickling Spice

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

2 tablespoons mustard seeds

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

2 tablespoons dill seed

2 tablespoons allspice berries

1 tablespoons crushed red pepper flakes

10-12 bay leaves, crumbled

In a medium pan, combine water and salt. Bring to a boil and heat until the salt is fully dissolved. Set aside and let the brine fully cool before using.

Wash a wide-mouth quart jar and a small four-ounce jelly jar and let them dry.

Wash Kirby cucumbers well and trim the ends. Pack them into the clean quart jar with the garlic cloves and the pickling spice. Pour the cooled brine over the cucumbers. Tap the jar gently on your counter to settle the cucumbers and to remove any air bubbles.

Place the four-ounce jelly jar into the mouth of the quart jar and fill it with some of the remaining brine. Press it down so that it holds the cucumbers in place.

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Put a small square of cheesecloth or a tea towel over the jar and secure it with a rubber band. Set the jar on a small plate or saucer and tuck it into a corner of your kitchen that's cool and out of direct sunlight.

Check the jar every day to ensure that the cucumbers remain submerged in the brine. After a week, slice off a small amount of cucumber and taste. If you like the level of sourness that the pickle has reached, remove the jelly jar from the mouth of the quart, place a lid on the jar and move it to the fridge.

If you think they need to continue to sour, let them sit out for a few more days. Pickles can continue their fermentation process for up to three weeks.

They will last up to a year in the fridge.

For more on pickling safely, check out our interview last year with test kitchen scientist Lauren Devine-Hager.

If you need help solving your own Lost Recipe, submit it here to NPR's All Things Considered. Put "Lost Recipe" in the subject line.

Three Secrets To Crispy Pickles, And A 'Lost Recipe' Found (2024)

FAQs

What is the secret to crunchy pickles? ›

Use Calcium Chloride

Sea salt is sodium chloride. In this case, we're talking about calcium chloride! These little granules, which dilute quickly in water, are THE trick to crunchy pickles, as they prevent the enzymes from softening the pickle during lacto-fermentation.

What ingredient keeps pickles crisp? ›

Add Tannins

Adding natural tannins such as grape leaves, black tea, or oak leaves can delay the softening process and keep your pickles firm. This is entirely optional and only works if your cucumbers aren't already soft.

How to make Mrs wages pickles crispy? ›

Use An Ice Water Bath

One of the best ways to prepare crispy pickles is to soak your cucumbers in an ice water bath for nearly five hours before starting the pickling process. Place water and ice in a large container and add the clean pickling cucumbers into it, letting them soak.

What is the crisping agent for pickles? ›

In addition to crisping up pickles, calcium chloride can also give a bit of a salty taste, while not adding any sodium to your food. Home brewers who mistakenly add too much calcium chloride to their brewing mash complain that it tastes like sea water.

How do you keep cucumbers crisp until pickling? ›

Once you've washed and wrapped them, the best way to store cucumbers is in the crisper drawer (a.k.a. produce drawer) of your fridge, set on high humidity with the fan closed. High humidity helps the ethylene-sensitive fruit retain moisture and keeps it from wilting.

Does alum keep pickles crisp? ›

If good quality ingredients are used and up-to-date methods are followed, firming agents are not needed. Alum has little crispness affect on quick-process pickles. Alum will increase firmness of fermented pickles when used at levels up to ¼ teaspoon per pint, but greater amounts will decrease firmness.

How to add pickle crisp? ›

It replaces pickling lime, which home picklers have long used to firm cucumbers into pickles . Calcium chloride aka pickle crisp is easier to use: you add 1/8 teaspoon along with the fruit or vegetable pieces and the pickling liquid to a pint jar, or 1/4 teaspoon to a quart jar and voila! Your done!

How does lime keep pickles crisp? ›

The calcium in lime will help firm pickles. However, lime also lowers the acidity, so you have to soak cucumber in water multiple times following the soaking in lime to remove the excess lime for safety.

Do grape leaves keep pickles crisp? ›

Did you know that grape leaves help keep dill pickles crunchy? We usually pick grape leaves off of local vines that grow wild in our area. Grapes leaves are important for making pickles because they release tannins which keep the pickles crisp.

How do you keep batter from falling off fried pickles? ›

Thoroughly drying the pickles is essential to the batter sticking properly, so don't skip that step. Simply remove the pickle slices from the jar, and drain them on a paper towel. Then, use another paper towel to pat each side of the pickles dry before dropping them into the buttermilk mixture.

How do tannins keep pickles crisp? ›

Add tannins

Tannins prevent the cucumber cell walls from breaking down and softening your pickle. Tannins can come in many forms so try some of the following and use what works best for you. * Grape Leaves - These are my personal favorite and are great if you have access to them.

Does citric acid make pickles crispy? ›

Alum and Citric Acid does not improve the firmness of quick-process pickles.

What is Bernardin pickle crisp? ›

More than a year ago I wrote here about Pickle Crisp, a granulated form of calcium chloride that Jarden, the company that makes Ball jars, was planning to sell for home canners (after taking a powdered form of the same chemical off the market, because it tended to dissolve in steam).

Why does calcium chloride keep pickles crisp? ›

This product is a food grade calcium chloride salt. It provides the calcium to help firm pectin, but does not have the hydroxide component that can lower the acidity of pickled foods.

How do you use alum for crisp pickles? ›

Alum will increase firmness when used at levels up to 1/4 teaspoon per pint. Addition of greater then 1/4 teaspoon alum per pint will decrease firmness.

Why do you soak cucumbers in ice water before pickling? ›

Better yet, grow them in the garden and ferment the day you pick them! Tasting the stem end can give you a sense of whether the pickle will be bitter since that's the end where bitterness concentrates. Soaking your cucumbers in ice water 30-60 minutes before fermenting seems to help keep crispness.

Do bay leaves keep pickles crunchy? ›

They act as natural preservatives, helping to maintain the firmness and texture of fruits and vegetables during the pickling process. When added to pickling brine, bay leaves infuse the cucumbers with these tannins, ensuring they remain delightfully crunchy even after months of storage.

Why are kosher pickles so crunchy? ›

After that, the pickles are placed in jars and allowed to ferment for a few weeks. They get their distinctive crunchy texture and sour flavor as a result of this process.

References

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